November 11th, 2011

Sarah Goes To RN 74

Looking for a lesson in Burgundy? RN74 is a good place to start. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in their many amalgamations dominate the list, of course. Beyond the full bottles available the wine list, a grown up playground really, offers tastes, sommelier pages, and an extensive selection of half bottles. I started out with a taste of 2009 Francois Chidaine Les Argiles Vouvray. Crisp, classic Chenin Blanc with flavors of yellow apple, lanolin, white flowers and acidity that was tense without being abrasive.

We ordered a half bottle of 2006 Henri Boillot Les Chevrets Volnay. Opened before it came to the table the wine proved to be lacking in the mid palate and fiery on the finish. The somm, Chris Tange, recommended a different bottle: 2006 Mongeard-Mugneret Clos du Bouchots Nuits St. Georges. The vineyard borders Vosne Romanee’s Les Malconsorts. It was a completely different and superior wine to the Volnay. Just enough tannic grip to give the wine a dancer’s posture with delicate fruit and savory characters. Towards the end of the meal the wine really showed its stuff: elegant, smooth, refined.

Dinner itself was quite good as well.  Tomato fondue with grilled cheese, matsutake tempura, roasted quail with chanterelles, and coq au vin (deconstructed, of course).  The tomato 'soup' came fully equipped with a fondue fork to spear the cubes of toasted sandwich.  Too cute.  If I could sneak the tempura into the movies it would be a heavenly alternative to popcorn; the sizable dish having the most satisfying crunch and earthy flavors.  The quail and chicken paired well with the pinot.  We lingered over our glasses in the end foregoing dessert.